Currency to Couture: The Fashion Evolution of Cowrie Shells in Africa
Karo woman wearing a multi-strand cowrie shell necklace, photographed by documentary photographers Carol Beckwith and Angela Fisher
Cowries tell a story. A story of trade, beauty, spirituality, and reinvention. They serve as a symbol – one of Africa’s values. For centuries, these small ocean shells have carried weight far greater than their size would suggest. From ancient kingdoms in West Africa to sacred rituals and royal regalia, cowries have been passed hand to hand, generation to generation, as currency, as protection, and as a symbol of pride.
And yet, even today, long after coins and paper monies have replaced shells and their use in most ventures has dwindled, cowries have not lost their power. They’ve simply transformed to become one of Africa’s most beloved and widely incorporated fashion pieces.
A Brief History of Cowrie Shells in Africa
Historians trace the widespread use of cowries in Africa back over a thousand years, with West Africa being one of the major hubs of cowrie-based trade.
These shells, sourced from the Maldives in the Indian Ocean, became one of the most powerful and valuable items in Africa. They were the acceptable currency, going on to hold immense cultural and economic value. Unlike now, where wealth is often measured by bank accounts and digital numbers, back then, a string of cowries around your waist or across your chest could speak louder than words. The more cowries you had, the more influence you carried.
Oh, but it doesn't stop there. Africans believe cowrie shells offer protection and connect the wearers to divine energies. In some traditions, it symbolized fertility, prosperity, and femininity. Priests, priestesses, and traditional worshippers, especially amongst the Yorubas in Nigeria, would use them in rituals and as a means of communication to the ancestors and spirits.
How Cowrie Shells Went from Sacred to Stylish
As time passed and currency systems evolved, the use—and even the name—of cowries began to fade, leading many to believe their era had come to an end. But here's the thing, cowrie shells didn't phase out, fade into history, or become some distant African memory. They were simply evolving with time to become the cowrie shells known today. Now, they are not just relics of a past economy, but emblems of resistance, beauty, and belonging.
Cowrie shells have made their way into modern fashion, music videos, runway shows, and even protest art. Worn in hair, around necks, wrists, and ankles, they signal more than just a trend; they reclaim narratives and celebrate African roots in global spaces.
Models wearing cowrie shells intricately woven into their traditional Didi hairstyles, photographed by Emmanuel Arewa of Spotlight Photos & Imagery, Source: Bella Naija
For many, especially in the African diaspora, wearing cowries is an act of cultural memory. It’s a way to stay connected, visible, and empowered in a world that often tries to erase such stories. To wear cowries now is to carry centuries of African meaning on your skin.
The Timeless Charm of Cowrie Shells in Contemporary Style
It can’t be reiterated enough that there’s something effortlessly magnetic about cowrie shells. Even a single cowrie shell used as a fashion accessory can elevate the whole look – no exaggeration.
Take, for instance, the cowrie-shell-embellished dress that Nigerian actress and model Nancy Isime wore to the 2024 iKON Awards in Uganda. Designed by Nigerian fashion brand Ateni, this dress is a perfect blend of tradition and modern elegance.
Nancy Isime’s cowrie dress for the 2024 iKON Award Show, photographed by Felix Crown
Honestly, who could see this floor-length taupe or blush-toned dress, intricately decorated with cowrie shells, cowrie shell kufi, and matching bangles and not take a second look at its sheer beauty?
This statement piece worn by Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson, an American Lawyer and Jurist, at Donald Trump’s 2025 Presidential Inauguration should not be left out. The stunning cowrie shell necklace and matching earrings captured national attention for the bold statement they made. They were a powerful nod to ancestry, identity, and unapologetic Black brilliance. In a room full of tradition, she rewrote the visual language with grace and meaning.
Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson at Donald Trump’s 2025 Presidential Inauguration, Photographed by Chip Somodevilla/Getty Images
Designers Are Turning to Cowries — and It’s Not Just About the Look
Cowrie shells add depth, texture, and a quiet authority that pulls everything together without overpowering it. Simply put, they know when to speak up and when to sit pretty. It is why designers continue to incorporate this African gem into their designs – not just to enhance the look of the outfit, but to infuse meaning and sophistication into their work.
One standout figure is Lafalaise Dion, the Ivorian creative artist often referred to as the Queen of Cowries. Her designs - bold, ceremonial headpieces and body ornaments made almost entirely of cowrie shells- are rooted in traditional spirituality but reimagined for the modern runway.
A Lafalaise Dion’s Model, Photographed by Brandon Mphela
Dion told Atelier 55 during an interview, “The cowries represent my story, the African story. It is the legacy left by my ancestors. It is the way for me, as a young woman, to reconcile myself with the African spirituality, to show the world the richness and uniqueness of my culture.”
And that is what she has done. Her cowrie shell designs proudly showcased the beauty in African fashion, heritage, and culture.
Traditional outfit of the AKAN woman of Ivory Coast, Photgraphed by Said Mhamad
Her pieces have appeared in international fashion magazines and Beyoncé’s Black Is King project, making cowries not just relevant but regal. One of her most striking pieces is the cowrie-covered headgear inspired by Nigerian Afrobeat music legend Lagbaja. This piece was worn by Beyoncé in her Spirit music video.
The mask-like design gained global recognition for its fusion of cultural symbolism with contemporary edge, as it conceals and reveals, all while staying unapologetically African.
Kílèntár, a Nigerian brand founded by Michelle Adepoju, has also incorporated the use of locally sourced cowrie shells, merging textile innovation with traditional forms. Other brands, such as Tongoro, Orange Culture, and Andrea Iyamah, have all leaned into this, transforming cowries into wearable art.
The Global Appeal of Cowries
With each day that passes, cowries gain global attention. Still using Beyonce as a reference, because no one showcased this better than her.
In her “Spirit” music video for The Lion King: The Gift, Beyoncé wore a number of breathtaking African-inspired outfits. But one stood out above the rest – a dress entirely embellished with pearls and cowrie shells and styled with the cowrie-designed Lagbaja headpiece. Designed by Maison Alexandrine and Laurel DeWitt, the outfit takes the crown as the most iconic look of the video. Essentially, the outfit was described as more than just fashion – it was a visual love letter to African identity and beauty.
Beyoncé in the 2019 “Spirit” music video, photographed by Erik Henriksson (Director of Photography)
That single outfit had all of us swooning with pride. It wasn’t just a fashion moment—it was a cultural declaration. For many Africans and members of the diaspora, seeing cowries presented in such a majestic, global context was deeply emotional. It reminded us that our traditions are beautiful, powerful, and worthy of celebration.
It’s Everywhere Now!
It’s safe to say that cowries have become a staple in the fashion industry. They’ve found a home on necks, ears, wrists, waists, hair, and in the hearts of wearers who understand their depth. They aren’t just trending; they’re reclaiming space. Dresses, jackets, skirts, bags, shoes, and even denim have been spotted with cowrie accents, especially in African and Afro-fusion collections.