Habesha Kemis – Hashing the Shared Mystery of the Famed Royalty Gown
Habesha Kemis, photographed by Middayexpress- Flickr
An ankle-length dress with endless curves that flutters in the soft desert winds of the middle of the African continent, covered with intricate patterning and appearing in several colors, and representing not one, but several tribes across two countries.
A dress adorning only the necks and bodices of royalty at one time, but now owned and worn by the populace from time immemorial.
That might sound like a fairytale, but it is not. It is a true story of the Habesha Kemis, a dress that stands for identity, culture, and faith. Continue reading to learn more about the renowned Habesha Kemis of Ethiopia and Eritrea.
Unravelling Habesha Kemis, One Thread at a Time
Between the handwoven material used to make a Habesha Kemis and the amount of time it takes to complete a single dress, there are quite a lot of reasons why the Habesha Kemis is considered special. After all, every inch of a Kemis holds in its innumerable folds a piece of ancestral knowledge and exceptional artistry that excites fashion enthusiasts. Before we move forward, let's look at what Habesha Kemis means.
What is A Habesha Kemis?
Habesha Kemis Clothing Photo by Mebratu Kumera Yigzaw
Kemis, which simply translates to dress, is a type of full-length dress worn by adult tribal females belonging to the general Habesha peoples, who inhabit the Eritrean and Ethiopian highlands. The Habesha are a cultural group comprising the Tigray, Amhara, and nearly every other community residing in central and northern Ethiopia, as well as some parts of Eritrea. The traditional Kemis have always remained white, but as change and urbanization emerged, several other colours began to develop.
Now you would be forgiven for wondering, why is a simple, flowing, full-length dress mean so much to a group of people in the Middle East? Well, if you haven't seen one yet, you will be forgiven for asking that question. A proper Kemis incorporates some forms of artistry called the tibeb or tilfi. It is the tibeb that truly defines the dress everywhere it is seen, as it transforms a simple gown into a fashionable and cultural icon of art and tradition.
The tibeb is the complex aesthetic embroidery that graces the neckline, hems, and sleeves of the Kemis. Like many other African fashion icons, these patterns vary according to region and individual culture and consequently symbolize meanings that are peculiar to the tribes, peoples, or cultures wearing the specific Kemis.
Back In Time
Traditional Ethiopian Clothing Photo by Rod Waddington
Habesha Kemis have been worn for over twenty centuries, dating back to the Axumite Empire, which ruled the Horn of Africa and beyond from its vast capital, Axum. We know this because, apart from passed-down stories, legends, and myths, historians, anthropologists, and archaeologists uncovered several carvings and texts that depict women from this ancient era draped in garments undoubtedly similar to the Kemis worn in the region today.
It is a testament to the enduring power of culture and tradition that the same Kemis worn over two thousand years ago remain in vogue, not just in Ethiopia and Eritrea, but all over the world today. Despite the influence of Christian tradition, the Habesha people, rather than discarding their traditional attire, adopted it as a symbol of female purity and modesty. Although it would take in influences from other countries due to the success of other countries' business imports, the Kemis remained an unwavering icon of Habesha identity.
How Kemis Are Made
Kemis are made from shemma, a locally handwoven cotton fabric, using traditional looms that make it light and breathable. This process typically takes several weeks, and its careful approach makes it well-suited for the climate in Eritrea and Ethiopia. Then comes the tilfi, which is sewn into the necklines and sleeves by hand. The result is a beautiful dress with a single colour base. Some motifs, such as shapes, crosses, and floral patterns, are quite common and represent balance, the strong Ethiopian Christian faith, and nature.
Bottom Line
Habesha Kemis embodies the whispers of a culture that chooses to remain traditional, from production to use, ensuring that the culture is passed down between generations and across time. Whether worn in a chic European setting or the highlands of Ethiopia, one thing is clear: the Habesha Kemis reminds us of what it stands for and why.