More than a century of Elegance: How Agbada continues to shape Nigerian style and identity
Man wearing Agbada photographed by Klalaphotography on Instagram
The Agbada—more than a traditional regal attire that reflects a powerful symbol of status—has evolved across the decades to become a fashion emblem, while retaining its significance, culture, and identity in Nigerian cultural heritage. The Agbada was originally an outfit worn by kings, chiefs, elders, and dignitaries in the traditional Yoruba society of the time. It was once a robe that reflected power, lineage, and status through the fabric used, the style, and the nature of the embroidery.
Origin and traditional composition
The Agbada, which translates to “voluminous attire,” is a garment characteristic of the Yoruba tribe in Western Nigeria. However, there have been claims that the attire originated in the Middle East and was introduced to Africa by Berber and Arab merchants during the Trans-Saharan trade period.
In the 1900s, the Agbada was a complete four-piece clothing consisting of the Awosoke—the defining piece of the Agbada, which is the large, free-flowing outer robe; the Awotele (undervest), worn beneath the Awosoke; Shokoto, a pair of trousers worn with the Awotele; and the Fila or Abeti Aja.
Cultural symbolism and traditional craftsmanship
The Agbada, which holds great symbolic importance for the Yoruba people of Nigeria, bears a resemblance to the Gbariye, a garment also worn by Yoruba men in the past. The attire is often confused with the Babban Riga of the Hausa people and the Boubou of the Senegalese. However, due to the evolving nature of fashion, these different outfits can no longer be easily differentiated, although they were originally distinct in terms of look, shape, style, and fabric.
The Agbada worn by kings, chiefs, and respected elders in the traditional Yoruba community was made from handwoven Aso-oke or Aso-ofi, and at some point even from Adire, showcasing the craftsmanship of the weavers and the artistic skills of Yoruba embroiderers, who would spend weeks creating the whole outfit. The Agbada worn by chiefs during those periods had symbolic beads embroidered into them, representing status, authority, and royalty. Unlike in recent times, the Agbada was only worn during special occasions, including coronations, religious ceremonies, and rites of passage. The outfit also reflected the wealth and family lineage of the wearer and was passed down as heirlooms in some families.
With the evolving nature of fashion, the Agbada—which was previously known for being a heavy and voluminous attire—eventually gave rise to a lighter and less voluminous version known as the Sapara. The Sapara, also known as the casual Agbada, is made from a much lighter fabric, cotton. It was named after a Yoruba physician, Dr. Oguntola Sapara, who introduced it as a result of his dislike for the heavier version, now referred to as Agbada Nla or ceremonial Agbada, as it is now worn mainly during occasions and ceremonies.
Agbada in contemporary fashion
Man wearing agbada photographed by Muhammad-Taha Ibrahim/Pexels
In recent times and trends, the Agbada has shifted from being an attire worn only on special occasions by royals and traditional dignitaries to becoming an everyday outfit—worn as a choice by anyone, anywhere. Despite this, the Agbada has maintained its sophisticated and majestic aura in contemporary fashion trends. The Agbada today is undoubtedly more than fashion. Having slipped out of the Nigerian traditional fashion space into the global stage—runways, luxurious stores, and showrooms—the Agbada is proudly a symbol of Nigerian culture and heritage. It has now become a go-to and trendy attire in the fashion industry, and is sewn using various fabrics, including silk and denim. Agbadas are now sewn and styled in various ways, including slim-fit, three-piece Agbadas, and even cropped versions. No longer solely an attire for men, the Agbada is now also styled for women. On several occasions and at various events, women have confidently worn feminine-styled versions of the Agbada, including Nigerian female celebrities such as Toke Makinwa and Nancy Isime. Yet despite these adaptations, the Agbada still maintains its majestic appeal.
It is no news that today’s Agbadas are styled with influences from Western tailoring, blended with traditional Nigerian craftsmanship and artisanal skill. With Nigerian menswear designers like Mai Atafo, Ugo Monye, Yomi Casual, Kenneth Ize, Kola Kuddus, among others, the traditional Agbada has been creatively reinterpreted for the modern man and woman. These Agbadas, through these designers, have found their way onto red carpets, runways, and high-society functions.
The Legacy Woven by the Agbada.
Man wearing agbada photographed by Justice Lopez
From Nigerian traditional weddings to Nollywood and the Nigerian music industry, the Agbada has established a lasting presence. It is a must-have outfit for both grooms and groomsmen in any Nigerian traditional wedding, as it not only reflects culture and heritage but also leaves them with an elegant and majestic feeling. On several occasions, the Agbada has been seen on red carpets, at Nollywood premieres, music award shows, and other ceremonies—including the AMVCAs—elegantly worn by celebrities, actors, Nollywood stars, and even Nigerian artists like Davido, Wizkid, and Burna Boy.
This highlights the prominence and enduring position of the Agbada in Nigerian fashion, while also increasing its global popularity. It is also being worn by Africans in foreign countries and by foreigners at various occasions and events.
Wearing the Agbada in the modern day is more than a statement of culture and heritage. From a garment of honor to a garment honoring ancestry, the Agbada embodies confidence and elegance—a testament to the refusal to conform to Western norms of formal wear. With embroidery skills and artisanal hands, and the use of fabrics that preserve, carry, and tell a Nigerian tale, the legacy of the Agbada remains wrapped in grandeur and grace.