From Johannesburg Streets to Global Runways: Wanda Lephoto's Vision of Identity and Style
Wanda Lephoto
Image Source: Wande Lephoto
In the vibrant landscape of global fashion, where trends often come and go fleetingly, a South African designer is carving out a unique and powerful space, celebrating heritage, identity, and the undeniable cool of African-inspired streetwear. His name is Wanda Lephoto, and his label is more than just clothing – it's a profound narrative woven into every stitch.
Wanda Lephoto founded and launched his design label, named after himself, in 2016, following his impactful role as co-founder of The Sartists collective. His brand emerged from a deeply personal and societal need: to address the lingering issues of identity in South Africa, particularly those stemming from colonialism. He recognized that some people still grapple with reconciling ancestral praise and traditional practices with adopted Western beliefs. Lephoto, therefore, uses his brand as a powerful case study to explore this complex relationship, investigating how colonialism has impacted South African identity and how one can navigate their spirituality amidst these influences. His mission is clear: to balance traditional symbolism with modern subculture styles, particularly street wear staples, in a way that feels fresh, wearable, and undeniably cool. Lephoto's designs don't just dress the body; they ignite conversations, challenge perceptions, and remind us that our stories, especially those we've been taught to be embarrassed of, are precisely what make our "flowers bloom through the concrete."
To truly understand Wanda Lephoto's aesthetic, one must delve into the very fabric of his inspiration – a tapestry rich with personal history and the collective spirit of South Africa. A pivotal influence, as Lephoto shares, was his late sister, who in 1995 was one of the first Black models to feature in a South African TV fashion commercial. Her pioneering spirit, representing a "new South Africa" filled with hope and endless possibilities, left an indelible mark. Her memory became a powerful catalyst, igniting Lephoto's realization that African fashion identity needed to be preserved and celebrated, not overshadowed by Western influences. This conviction underpins his work, reminding Africans that there's no need to be embarrassed by their traditional designs; they should embrace and celebrate, rather than abandon, the inspirational African prints and narratives that define their heritage.
WANDA LEPHOTO is a Johannesburg-based Ready-to-Wear Menswear brand that redefines luxury dressing by embracing the plurality of culture, tradition, identity, and history through storytelling, creating new worlds of beauty in fashion. The brand reflects this "new world and new generation," striving to create "new cultures and new languages" that draw from both past and present inspirations. Lephoto's distinct notion of "cultural luxury" seamlessly infuses Western practices with an undeniable African spirit, all informed by critical research into cultural plurality to create new propositions for identity and representation. With the help of other fashion industry creatives, Lephoto endeavors to represent and tell forgotten, neglected, and unspoken stories that inspire him daily. He's actively changing the perception of his people and their history, trying to make them realize that their voices and ideas matter, and that what they once found embarrassing about their journey are actually the things they should celebrate openly.
Wanda Lephoto Fall Winter ‘22 Titled Gaze photographed by Anke Loots.
This profound philosophy is reflected in a series of deeply symbolic and visually striking collections, each a chapter in Lephoto's ongoing narrative of African identity and memory. His Fall/Winter 2025 Spirits collection, for instance, arrives as both a memory reclaiming spirits' past and a whispered prophecy of spirits' future. It's an encounter with the ingenuity of the human spirit, a vibrant celebration of Africa’s shining lineage, echoing the African philosophy of "I am because we are" and emphasizing that the "human spirit shines through community." This collection redefines luxury through craftsmanship and storytelling, inspiring new perspectives on beauty with elements such as heavy, coarse linen coats, Ghanaian woven suits, and essential denim sets, often featuring sensitive Zulu symbols and the Akan word "Sunsum" (meaning soul or spirit) woven into the tailoring.
His Spring/Summer 2024 collection, "Our People," is another visual journey that celebrates artistry, community, and shared memories. It features iconic pieces like the "Sophiatown Coat" and the "King of Diamonds" suit, and thoughtfully references historical elements such as beauty pageants and bodybuilders, as well as the powerful "Ghana Must Go" print (which Lephoto refers to as "Me Fie" from the Akan language, symbolizing themes of displacement and migration). This thematic depth is also evident in other powerful collections, such as Gaze, Black Renaissance, and Home Affairs. Each collection carries significant symbolism, collectively paying homage to the act of remembering and prompting crucial questions for new generations: "how will they remember, who will they remember, and why will they remember?"
Wanda Lephoto's impactful journey extends to significant collaborations and accolades, cementing his position on the global stage. He has showcased his collections on international platforms, such as Milan Fashion Week and Paris, thereby broadening the global conversation around African fashion. His collaborations include work with global brands like Nike and local powerhouses such as Thebe Magugu and Dakotas, for whom he re-interpreted the classic loafer. Notably, his partnership with Savanna Cider for the "Dry Goods" waterproof apparel collection pushed boundaries by being sustainably produced and including what they believed was the world's first recycled NFT. Recognizing his commitment to ethical and impactful design, GQ South Africa honored him with the prestigious "Sustainable Designer of the Year" award at their 2024 Men of the Year Awards, and he was also recognized at the Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards.
Through his visionary work, Wanda Lephoto isn't just designing clothes; he's shaping conversations, challenging perceptions, and empowering a generation. He's reminding people that their voices and ideas matter, and that the very aspects of their history they might find embarrassing are, in fact, the vibrant roots from which their unique "flowers bloom through the concrete." His brand is actively changing the perception of his people and history, making South African heritage undeniably cool and globally relevant. Wanda Lephoto's journey is a testament to the power of fashion as a tool for change, a medium for storytelling, and a bridge between past, present, and future identities. He's not just dressing individuals; he's dressing a movement.
As Wanda Lephoto continues to push boundaries and weave profound narratives into his collections, his impact on both the local and international fashion scene is only set to grow. He stands as a beacon for authentic African storytelling in fashion, proving that true luxury lies in identity, history, and the courage to celebrate who you are.