How Africa Propagated the Use of Beads in the Fashion Industry
Xhosa Beadwork by Maxhosa Africa
Beadwork is one of Africa’s most widely exported art crafts, despite some regions exporting more beadwork than others. However, Africa’s beadwork is usually more appealing and sought after in the global market for obvious reasons: its storied history, production, and dazzling broad range of colors.
Woven by hand with abundant stories to tell, beadwork from African communities holds so much promise that it is a wonder any of the beadwork is exported beyond the continent. Between being made from stories told in ancient ceremonies and given to tribe members, there is so much to unpack from beadwork that originates from the Black continent.
This article highlights how Africa has contributed to the widespread use of beads in the fashion industry, both locally and internationally.
In The Beginning…
The creation of African beadwork dates back thousands of years, with beadwork discovered by African archaeologists that predates the Stone Age. While traders from Europe, the Middle East, and Asia began to bring in colored glass beads in the 14th century, early Africans had been crafting beads from shells, stones, clay, and special stones long before then.
However, while beadwork outside Africa was primarily an art form, African beadwork had cultural origins and tribal significance attached, with each region and tribe developing its own symbolic meaning and, consequently, its own styles and techniques. Below are instances:
The Zulu produce intricately beautiful beadwork as part of their tribal identity. Among adults, every color and pattern conveys a message related to themes such as gender, age, courtship, and marital status.
A woman wearing a Zulu beaded necklace photographed by Jack Minkyi Minkyi (Pexels)
Among the Ndebele of South Africa, famous for their geometrically shaped beadwork, wearing beadwork signifies a special ceremony or ritual, such as a birth, a death, a chieftaincy title, or a coronation.
Woman in traditional South-African beadwork, photographed by C'Pho Ngondo R.Rouge/Pexels
A woman from Northern Kenya showing their marital status with beads, photographed by Jayne McLean
These collars and bracelets serve as both adornments and markers of a tribe member’s passage into adulthood or marriage. For the Samburu especially, the courting men are expected to give their women a large beaded collar, which also signifies many things. For example, the bigger the collar and the more diverse its colors, the more beautiful the woman is.
Beaded Waist Beads Photographed by Waist Beads by Nora
Among some tribes in Nigeria and Ghana, locally made glass is used as a bead material for decorative and spiritual purposes.
Inspiring and Educating - Bead by Bead
Due to the uniqueness and rich history behind African beadwork, it has become a source of inspiration for both African and non-African jewelry designers. Beads have historically been a means of communication, with their diversity and patterns, as well as the use of locally found materials and arrangements, conveying both hidden and non-hidden messages to the wearer and the wearer's intended recipient.
The fashion industry is beginning to take a closer look at these designs and interpret them in more exciting and profound ways, allowing for a newer way to pay respect and homage to the sources of these inspirations.
Additionally, because the fashion industry is constantly evolving while maintaining its traditional standards, it is not uncommon to highlight the story behind beadwork in a more interesting way. Since beads are known for their versatility – they can be placed on almost anything, including bags, collars, necklaces, clothing, and even shoes – this offers designers the chance to revisit the stories behind these crafts and re-tell them in the local and international context.
Zulu Beaded Hat Photographed by Luangisa
A piece of cloth could simply exist, but adding beads could turn it into a continental or international piece that turns heads anywhere it is found. It also gives people something to discuss; a celebrity appearing in a beaded outfit causes people to sit up and take notice. It could get the rumor mill into overdrive about the celebrity’s affiliation with that particular craft style.
Conclusion: Rebuilding, Reinventing, Reimagining
Many African designers are now looking to reimagine beadwork for the world by focusing on three approaches: preserving heritage while challenging norms and elevating craftsmanship to match international standards.
Laduna Ngxokolo, CEO of MaXhosa Africa, says, “My work is a love letter to Xhosa culture. When you see our patterns, you see beadwork translated into knitwear—a way to keep tradition alive in a modern wardrobe.”