Spotted: African Fashion on Global Screens
There’s immense satisfaction in seeing an African brand gain recognition globally. Recently, I discovered that there's even greater pleasure in seeing them featured in International TV and film. This could be because every time a brand of any kind appears on screen, multiple bloggers are ready with their keyboards to report about it. There are also social media pages dedicated to helping people find whatever impressive item they see on a character, and from there, attention is drawn, and it’s about time our designs are transported from runways to TV screens.
If you’re wondering which shows might have featured some of your favourite designers, wonder no more - an avid telephile like myself will point you in the right direction.
If you’re familiar with Imad Eduso, you should also be familiar with her Abeke Top and Adunni pant set, which went viral sometime in 2022. They made their TV debut on the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air reboot titled “Bel-Air”, with one of the recurring cast members, Vivian Banks, played by Cassandra Freeman. This wouldn’t be the only time she would be rocking an
African designer, for she also donned Lisa Folawiyo’s “Lucky” printed blazer and pants on the show. This same outfit was worn by Dominique Deveraux on Dynasty the year before.
Right: Cassandra Freeman wearing Lisa Folawiyo, styled by QueenSylvia Akuchie, featured on Bel-Air, Season 2, Episode 5
Left: Micheal Michele wearing Lisa Folawiyo, styled by Meredith Mark-Worth Pollack, featured on Dynasty, Season 5, Episode 22
African designers frequently appear on Bel-Air because the costume designer is the talented Queen Sylvia Akuchie, a Nigerian woman passionate about incorporating her heritage into her work. After doing extensive research on her, the appearance of those pieces on the show became less of a shock.
When Insecure was released on HBO, I’m not sure even Issa Rae knew how much of a cultural impact it would have, from the characters to the wardrobe, down to the soundtrack. But any woman of color who has watched the show would agree that something shifted when it hit our screens. The main character Issa Dee played by the creator was known for looking out of place in the first seasons, but nothing tells a story like clothes and as her character developed so did her wardrobe, The first sighting of anything African was the Fulani inspired crop top by Maki Oh worn in the second season by Issa, by the fourth and fifth seasons Issa had worn three different designs all by Lisa Folawiyo.
Issa Rae wearing Lisa Folawiyo, styled by Shiona Turini, featured on Insecure, Season 5, Episode 7
Ahluwalia is another brand that has appeared multiple times across various streaming services. You can find pieces by the British-Indian-Nigerian designer on five different shows, including Gossip Girl (the reboot), The Lincoln Lawyer, And Just Like That, Reasonable Doubt, and Days of Our Lives.
Jazz Raycole wearing Ahluwalia, styled by Beth Morgan, featured on The Lincoln Lawyer, Season 2, Episode 1
I’m sure this next designer doesn’t come as a surprise, her pleated organza top can’t be escaped and you might be made to feel a little less if you don’t own one, at least you could live vicariously through fictional characters like Hazel-May Mccall- played by Ashleigh Murray on The other black girl who radiated in the Sombra Thong Leotard by Andrea, if reality TV is your drug of choice, The Real Housewives love them some Andrea from the wives in Potomac to Beverly Hills, many an Iyamah piece could be seen.
Garcelle Beauvais wearing Andrea Iyamah, featured on Real Housewives of Beverly Hills, Season 13, Episode 13
Moving towards Central Africa, Hanifa is a brand known for its sophisticated execution of knitwear. There is a gentleness about this brand that is easily identified. So it wasn’t hard to put two and two together when I caught sight of the Imani knit sweater top on Beyond the Gates, and an even easier guess was the Camille skirt paired with the Syd crop top on Survival of the Thickest.
Streetwear is always the easiest to spot on TV shows. Often, we see Billionaire Boys Club, Off-White, and Comme Des Garçons worn casually. However, one day, I was lucky enough to spot Free the Youth’s baseball jersey on a character in Hulu’s TV show Queenie.
From HBO to CBS, African fashion is alive and well in the global market, and I’ll keep watching to see what else is worn by whom else appears on my screen. And yes, that was the Ito Braided Fringe Mini Dress by Kilentar that Maya Jama wore on Love Island.